One house stands isolated on a large bed of rock in the sea, connected to the mainland by a peninsula-like wall and eventually revealing its true form as a church. Today picnic packers, vacationers and lovers stand by this building loved by Matisse for a view of the sea uninterrupted by the encroaching Pyrenees. The whispering of the waves is interrupted only by the laughs of tanning vacationers on Collioure’s stony Riviera-style beach. Despite the lack of sand, summer brings thousands of sun seekers in all states of undress to wade in the clear warm bay, while at night they throng to Collioure’s many Spanish-flavored affordable seafood restaurants. Some will even sell the multi-colored plates on which they serve paella and the bright glasses that hold ladles of summer sangria. One place where the fine food challenges the elegant decor is El Capillo. Sit in their modern black metal chairs and delight in their Catalan culinary specialties including eight different ways of preparing mussels as the heavy afternoon sun fades into dusk.
As the day of sun and seafood ends, the trailing ochre rays of the setting sun splash against the blackening sea as rounded glasses fill with cognac, and the rumbling of the train trails into the distant silence as the last express leaves for the clacking castanets of neighboring Spain.